From Law Books to Cookbooks - Why Do So Many Lawyers Become Food Writers?

Attending law school might just be the secret ingredient to becoming a food writer.

Imagine the life of a lawyer, filled with the thrill of the courtroom, the rustle of legal briefs, and — the looming shadow of burnout. It's not all objections and gavels. Sometimes, it's about figuring out an escape to a "Plan B". Take it from Barbara Fairchild, the former editor of Bon Appetit, who quipped, “Everybody’s writing about food and everyone I meet is a lawyer who wants to be a food writer. It’s really getting kind of freaky out there.”

It reminds me of Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, the French foodie lawyer who reflected on the craft and science of cooking and better yet, the art of eating. He wrote his magnum opus which appeared in 1825 of his gastronomical meditations under the very long original title of “Physiologie Du Goût, ou méditations de gastronomie transcendante; ouvrage théorique, historique et à l'ordre du jour, dédié aux gastronomes parisiens, par un professeur, membre de plusieurs sociétés littéraires et savants”, is a mouthful befitting a lawyer. A quick quote from his book allows an insight into his character “The discovery of a new dish does more for the happiness of the human race than the discovery of a star.” He might well be one of the founders of the gastronomical essay.

Like Brillat-Savarin, there is a strong outpouring of lawyers becoming food writers or recipe developers, maybe because, as he stated, discovering a new dish simply brings happiness. Why do so many lawyers go into food writing, and what makes a lawyer equipped to write about food?

Anyone can do it, but I’m still trying to figure out what makes a good food writer. Or maybe, Oxford art historian Edgar Wind can remind us, “Mediocrity which claims to be intense has a peculiarly repulsive effect.” Mediocrity can be avoided by well-honed research skills learned in law schools which is a formidable talent when writing about food history, culture, or trends.

As odd as it sounds, lawyers have what it takes. Lawyers are used to long hours drafting legal arguments, bogged down by further research to make those arguments livelier and more convincing. Lawyers often craft narratives in court that align perfectly with the skill to write a compelling narrative to a story around food that needs clarity, persuasion, and engagement. Writing about food instead of fighting for someone’s right to freedom seems like child play.

Lawyers with their storytelling skills and eye for detail could very well moonlight as food critics. They might pass on an ever-consuming legal profession where burnout is served more often than justice. Take the 2013 documentary, “Gideon’s Army” which shows the reality of an American public defender. They are the unsung heroes fighting against injustice, long hours, bite-sized paychecks, and a menu of cases so overwhelming “that even the most committed often give up in their first year.” A daunting career that highlights just how tough a legal career can be, in the land of the free.

With such an extreme example and responsibility, the option to tone down to the humility of food can seem more sane. The lawyers turned food writers that I’ve found didn’t have such an intense law career as previously stated, but have turned to food for a therapeutic escape from the stresses of legal work. Such as Ed Smith, an ex-solicitor in London who worked at a large law firm for 5 years and now has 4 cookbooks, and his Rocket & Squash Substack. Or Rukmini Iyer, a former London lawyer with 7 cookbooks who also writes recipes for publications. Or, renowned food writer Caitlin Gunther (at least in my book) who has a JD from Cornell Law School and was editor of the Cornell International Law Journal. She then tried her way into a Michelin-starred restaurant and explains it with smooth skills in her Bon Appétit article. The list goes on.

I have to say I’m quite a fan of lawyers turned food writers. A bit sour about it, but still a fan. They bring something else to the table, such as the ability of critical thinking and financial power to deduce a sense of purpose and living into their gastronomical journey through writing. They won’t fumble their point and they won’t waste your time with their story or review. They focus on the matter at hand to convince you otherwise, it used to be their job, after all.

My search for a lawyer who transitioned from law to food writing and back to law to leverage their influence for a profound societal and legal impact still remains. The fusion of food journalism and legal expertise could create something powerful. Just like the popularized quote in Spiderman “With great power comes great responsibility.” I try to imagine the concept of ‘The League of Food Lawyers,’ it’s hopefully not a fantasy. It can represent a collective of legal professionals who aim to fight food-related injustices. They could have the ability to draw attention to issues highlighted in award-winning investigative pieces like “The Kids on the Night Shift” by Hannah Dreier. Who helped expose the tragic maiming of a 14-year-old migrant child working the overnight cleaning shift at a slaughterhouse in rural Virginia.

Additionally, The New York Times has reported on the use of fertilizer made from city sewage, which was spread on millions of acres of farmland for decades. Scientists found dangerous levels of toxic substances. The state of Michigan has investigated the chemical contamination in sludge fertilizer and shut down one farm with high levels of it. The state has prohibited that land for agriculture again and worries about further testing because of the unknown impact on the agriculture industry. Yeah, let’s worry about the damage to the industry and not the countless lives hanging in the balance.

It’s a tall order for any lawyer to take up such a battle. But hey, if the thought alone makes you want to swap your briefcase for a knife roll, go ahead and hit that call bell because the order is up and the food is getting cold. Just document the journey and stick with the writing, it’s one hell of a privilege and easier than working in the kitchen. The only issue is to make it your bread and butter.

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On that note…

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Deviled crab-ly yours,

The Greasy Pen