There has been an invisible, and tangible culinary war between France and Italy since the beginning of their time. A heavier gastronomical rivalry than those two is hard to find.
Besides the real wars and battles fought between the two, this one still rages on. A war of technique, dishes, recipes, and overall knowledge. Centuries of curses being flung about under murmurs and grunts, this sauce or that sauce competing for the culinary crown.
This debate came about at my best friend’s birthday three weeks ago. We were tipsy enough to act like fools and compare what is better, your average French or Italian restaurant. He immediately sided with Italian restaurants, specifically the mom-and-pop ones. A fair point.
My upper lip betrayed me as it jumped to the side and I gargled my words until I decided to let this one slide. I disagree and would bring this subject up again when it isn’t his birthday.
I am heavily biased because I was born just a stone’s throw from Paris. I know that both cuisines are excellent in the right hands, just like any. Yet my bias won’t budge if I have to choose between an average Italian or French restaurant. I will walk in the French one.
The reason why I think the majority of Italian restaurants lack good food is because the majority serve substandard pasta and pizza. Not to mention the great profit margin of those two options. I worked at an excellent Italian restaurant and I know firsthand what magic can be done with good ingredients and a good Italian brodo, or broth. Those broths of culinary elixirs mixed with fresh pasta can conjure a new standard for most foodies.
I also worked at very good French restaurants and their ignorance of pasta shows the massive difference in what can be done with a little time and care. It all depends, but I think you’ll find better food in a French restaurant outside of their respective countries. And, it’s getting harder to find those classic mom-and-pop joints anymore, or restaurants that care.
Sadly for me, on my trip to Venice, it was hard to find restaurants that cared. From what I tried, it was all very mediocre. Besides its beauty. I mean, the city is breathtaking, and I despise using that word so I mean it.
Well, let me also give a bit of context. Before heading out on vacation, I asked Substack Notes for restaurant recommendations for Venice. Two reputable and awesome Substack writers replied with their tips for good Venetian restaurants. I couldn't try any of them out, because my one-and-a-half-year-old daughter chose most of the restaurants with the conviction of a dictator (she is the best human being ever btw.)
I’m slightly exaggerating, but we chose a few restaurants after doing a small amount of research, and none of them made me feel something. I want to leave a restaurant saying: “I want to work in this kitchen.” Luckily, it happened once on this trip which is more than I can ask for on a vacation.
At Hotel Venice Venice, I was blessed with the best gnocchi I’ll ever have. No need to search further. It was an ode to the potato and magic. I want one massive gnocchi from them to use as my pillow. I took a bite of that small fluffy Italian cloud covered in a glossy sheen of ragú it didn’t resist when I started chewing. I was somewhere else for a split second, this was quality and care in every bite.
That gnocchi set a new and very high standard for me. This is why I try to carefully choose restaurants in the hope of being surprised and slapped with an exciting technique or shaken silly into understanding what food can become. I feel most restaurants don’t care, whether French or Italian. The passion is gone which can be understandable. Why try better when things work just fine as they are? I feel like a prick expecting good food, not very good or excellent, but just plain old good is more than fine with me. But when I have an excellent dish, like the gnocchi, I want to thank the chef for their care, skill, and passion.
If the opposite were to happen and I pay the same price for a dish that is lacking in every aspect it’s not fair to anyone involved, all the way down to the farmer.
I'm having trouble finding decent restaurants on vacation. I curse those immoral tourist trap restaurants. I’m considering carrying a voodoo doll to flaunt to the waiter to show I mean business. Especially if there is a heftier price tag than usual. I believe in culinary accountability, but where can I find restaurants that believe in that too?
Once again, thank you for reading. It is tremendously appreciated.
Gnocchi-ly yours,
The Greasy Pen.
Glad it wasn't just me..! Found most of the food in Venice thoroughly underwhelming and this has been a theme throughout the major Italian cities I've visited - but only whenever I was without Italian supervision. I'd pick French over Italian any day in a restaurant but probably Italian over French when at someone's home.
This is the constant lament. There is just so much mediocre expensive food here. I live in Venice & I find it a challenge. You have to be ruthless with your research & not go off piste. (Rome is much much easier)