I’m certain it’s hard to get a bad bite in Mexico City. I am ecstatic that they are getting more recognition for a great city with beautiful people, rich culture, and phenomenal food. Mexico is an absolute treasure of gastronomy.
Michelin took their sweet time and admitted it takes years of research and scouting locations to introduce a new Michelin guide. Well, we finally have it.
A celebratory 42 Bib Gourmands, 6 Green Stars — for sustainable practices, 16 one-star restaurants, 2 two-star restaurants, and not a single three-star restaurant.
Nonetheless, as with this tardy guide, Mexican cuisine is extremely underrated, in my opinion. I am completely biased as my stepmother is Mexican, but Mexican ingredients show tremendous depth and variety. As you can see in one of my favorite cookbooks, Yucatán: Recipes from a Culinary Expedition by David Sterling, from page 19 to the end of the preview.
Strangely enough, this specific taco stand named ‘El Califa de León’ in Mexico City — one among the 18 that won a Michelin star, is not the depth and variety I was thinking about. This is a straightforward taco stand. El Califa de León has been in operation since 1968. Their Gaonera taco is what won them their star. Their thinly sliced beef filet is cooked to order and so tender that you don’t need to slice it. A simple salt seasoning, with a squeeze of lime cooked on a plancha. Their other options are bistec (beef steak), chuleta (pork chop), or costilla (pork rib). The meat is tucked in a fresh homemade corn tortilla with green or red salsa. Michelin stated it as ‘elemental and pure.’
The initial assignment from Michelin has been considered. After all, the Michelin guide began with places to recommend to eat on your travels that are worth a stop. The difference between a Bib gourmand appraisal and a one-star is slight. One-star means high-quality cooking that is worth a stop. Bib Gourmand offers exceptionally good food at moderate prices determined by local standards.
According to David, a street vendor nearby said he ate at El Califa de León a couple of times. “It’s good. [But] The best tacos in the city? I don’t know.”
“But I’ve never seen so many gringos eating here,” he added.
Usual classics are the renowned al pastor, barbacoa, carnitas, guisados, and tacos de canasta with the adventure and the search for the finest of each. The simplicity of El Califa de León is, to me, surprising. I would love to try, and maybe that goes back to the initial point of the Michelin, an enticing suggestion.
Opinions vary widely, whether they have worked in the industry or if one can afford to dine at a Michelin restaurant; my favorite opinions are from chefs who belch in disgust at the Michelin guide. These stars seem to be awarded almost in the same context as The Oscars, the winners don’t necessarily deserve to win ‘Best Picture’, but they win because it’s political.
I’ve written about different aspects of Michelin, such as Only 9 Black Michelin-Starred Chefs (which still baffles me) and Green Michelin Star. I am not saying the winners don’t deserve it. Every single awarded restaurant deserves recognition and fame for their hard work, but with this highly revered star system, there are corruption claims. As in this Eater article, a Korean chef refused to start pay-for-a-star bribery with a supposed Michelin consultant.
It is hard to say with the speed that Michelin is trying to cover the gastronomical world with its star system. Well, I still have yet to try a Michelin anything — exceptional, political, corrupt or not…
Albondigas-ly yours,
The Greasy Pen.